The
HEAD-LOCK is a quick-release tie-down for Mitchell base heads. It
eliminates the separate knob with 3/8" stud for securing the
head. Instead, the HEAD-LOCK mounts to, and stays on, the bottom of
the head, using a 3/8"-16 bolt. When the head is placed on the
dolly or tri-pod, the HEAD-LOCK passes through
the center of the Mitchell mount. Turning the built-in knob from below
locks the head in place. There's no more fishing around, trying to
get the tie-down started, while the sun is dropping below the horizon.
The HEAD-LOCK is made of anodized aluminum, stainless steel and plated
steel parts. The only non-plated steel parts, the thrust washer and
it's races, are hardened steel and packed in grease. The HEAD-LOCK
is built for long life & low maintenance.
Important: Do not try to
tighten the HEAD-LOCK onto a Mitchell mount unless the HEAD-LOCK is
bolted to the bottom of a camera head, or the mounting bolt is through
the HEAD-LOCK with a nut tightened down on it. Doing so could pull
the moving parts of the HEAD-LOCK out of the center hub.
Important:
When mounting the HEAD-LOCK on the camera head, be sure the head of
the mounting bolt goes into the rubber seal in the center of the tightening
knob. When properly installed, the head of the bolt will be flush
with the face of the knob.
Safety
Catch:
For extra security, one of the three jaws on your Head-Lock has a
spring plunger screwed into it, so the HEAD-LOCK could never vibrate
loose and the head fall of its mount. When you are loosening the knob
and retracting the jaws, you will feel resistance when the spring
plunger reaches the center hub. Continuing to turn the knob will overcome
this resistance, and the jaws will retract into the hub. The amount
of resistance can be adjusted by inserting a small screwdriver into
the threaded hole and turning the spring plunger.
Lubrication:
Under normal working conditions, lubrication of the HEAD-LOCK is something
you should rarely have to deal with. There are two groups of moving
parts:
